By HELEN ONG

   Nyonya, or Peranakan (descendant), heritage is something which is quite unique. The word “nyonya” is a respectful Indonesian/Malay term for a lady, and “baba” refers to the male. Born of Chinese (typically Hokkien) immigrants who settled in various parts of South East Asia centuries ago, this group assimilated into local societies by adopting their practices, cuisines and even language, eventually evolving into a separate distinct culture of its own. In Malaysia, they congregated in what became known as the British Straits Settlements: Singapore, Melaka and Penang, and are sometimes referred to as the Straits Chinese.

Gulai Assam Tumis (Fish in a Spicy Sour Curry)

Kari Kapitan (Captain’s Curry)

Purut Ikan (Spicy Sour Vegetable Curry)

Otak Otak (Spicy Fish Packets)

Jiu Hoo Char (Fried Yam Bean with dried Octopus)

Tau Eu Bak (Chicken or Pork Stewed in Soya Sauce)

   This is similar to Adobo, and there are various versions of it. Generally cooked with pork, garlic, a pinch of sugar and five-spice powder and two types of soya sauce (light and dark), it’s one of the mainstays of nyonya home cooking as the resulting gravy thickens into a scrumptious almost gel-like sauce which goes beautifully with white rice. Often tau kua (firm bean curd), Chinese mushrooms and hard-boiled eggs are added. Tu Ka Chor is a sweet variation which includes black vinegar. It’s absolutely delish with a dollop of sambal belacan.

Note:
Although sambal is a generic word for chilli paste, there are various versions. Sambal belacan, made from belacan and fresh chillies, is used as a condiment, whilst sambal prawns as part of a main meal with rice.


Helen Ong is a self-confessed foodie who loves to hunt down the best of Penang. She is the author of the book Great Dining in Penang. Check out her blog on www.helenong.com